Ahhhh … it’s that time of year. Leaves are turning colors, there’s a refreshing chill in the air and thoughts are turning to, well … the new harvest of wine grapes. In our household, as we light the fireplace and enjoy a well-deserved respite from work, a glass of wine becomes a great companion as you curl up with a good book, music CD or movie. Better yet, a trip to wine country in the fall can restore your sense of nature’s beauty and bounty. It’s a quick, fun-filled getaway that’s perfect for this time of year.
September and October days mark the 200-year rite-of-passage for grape growers and vintners. For weeks now, vineyard workers throughout California have been hustling and bustling to pick the ripening grapes and begin creating the next generation of wines. In Napa, Sonoma, Livermore, Monterey, Paso Robles, etc., the buzz is that, due to extra rains and cooler temperatures, resulting in larger fruit, the harvesting is later this year. These conditions, while generally advantageous, make for a shorter window for grape pickers. The shorter window brings extra challenges for the “art and science” process of knowing exactly when to pick for the best flavor. That said, expect this to be a bumper crop in both quality and quantity, except possibly for pinot noir grapes. The continuing popularity of the Oscar-winning “Sideways” film has generated special demand for pinot noir grapes, and winemakers are scrambling to buy up the precious grapes wherever they can.
In Sonoma Valley, the center of this region’s wine country, the fragrance of crushed grapes hovers in the air until the late season rains wash it away. The area was affectionately named “Valley of the Moons” by Native Americans for the way the moon appears to rise multiple times per night with varying cloud layers and mountainous elevations. Napa and Sonoma have about 45,000 acres of grapes, about the same as in Monterey County, but with many more winemakers. The net result is we have an epicurean treasure very close to home.
To virtually “get the feel” of the winemaking process, annual wine crushes and stomps are must-do experiences (at least once) but they are just about over for this season. However, there are plenty of wine country festivals and activities over the next month or two. I’ve compiled a list of upcoming events, see the adjoining box. Take a spontaneous wine country outing with friends and family or attend one of these special activities.
Before you venture to wine country, allow me to offer a few tips:
* Do advance planning. There are hundreds of vineyards so it’s unrealistic to think you can cover more than a few in a day or two. Besides, the best part of the trip is taking a more leisurely approach than your normal routine. Identify places you have the highest interest in visiting, confirm their hours and develop a tentative itinerary; you can always modify it later. Go to at least one un-tried restaurant while there but call ahead for reservations or ask about best times to get seated. If you can, aim for a weekday to avoid the dense weekend exodus.
* Don’t overdo. It’s easy to overindulge in food and wine when it’s so tasty and plentiful. Pace yourself in all ways. Don’t feel obliged to finish every glass; no child will go hungry from the wine you pour away. A thrifty way to experience multiple tastings is to share each glass with a friend or spouse and share reactions. Savor more, consume less. A Monday morning hangover will cancel out the benefits of the trip. And be sure to assign a designated driver each day or opt for a chauffeur-driven car or train ride.
* Take risks. It’s human nature to fall back on the tried and true, especially when it comes to wine. However, trying a new vintner or an unfamiliar type of wine is the best way to broaden your knowledge. If you’re a chardonnay lover, try a pinot blanc or sauvignon blanc; merlot lovers, try a cab, shiraz or zinfandel. Explore dessert wines – a port or Muscat – or focus on champagnes. If your palate is not yet trained to identify subtle differences in tastes, ask the wine pourer to describe what he or she tastes and see if you can distinguish the flavors.
* Bring along a notepad. There’s so much information on grapes, types, years, pairings, etc.; you can get overwhelmed. If you’ve been before, skip the tour and canned presentations; ask questions and make notes on specific wines you and your friends like best and why. If you’re a red wine lover but your spouse prefers white, taste both but assign each of you to take notes on your respective preferences. With all the aggressive selling, resist the temptation to overbuy. Order when your mind is clear and have your favorites shipped to you when you return home. Note what you didn’t get to see or questions you didn’t get to ask and file them away for your next trip.
* Enjoy the bounty now…and later! Again, let your palate guide you and savor everything in a leisurely fashion. Make the trip mostly about now, not later. Wine advisors tell us to buy wine for aging and future consumption but who of us remembers how long to age and when to open the bottle after we bring it home? If you discover a wine you really love, buy two bottles – one to consume soon, another to age (based on the vineyard’s advice) so you can compare it to the first bottle. Write the optimal opening date on the second bottle’s label with a permanent marker.
So, grab a warm sweater or jacket, jump on the highway and head for wine country. Everything you’ll need and want for a mini-getaway is there in abundance – wine, food, mud wraps and spas, fresh air and some quiet time in the country. Oh, and don’t forget your checkbook.
2005-2006 wine festivals & other celebrations
* Napa Valley Wine Train, www.winetrain.com. Leave the driving to someone else and free yourself to imbibe; fares include a variety of wine/meal options; partake in a special harvest dinner on-board 10/21, including a separate child-care car.
* Harvest Wine Tour, Paso Robles, Oct. 14-16, www.pasowine.com
* Napa Underground, Oct. 22, www.napavalleymuseum.org; enjoy Napa’s wine caves with wine tastings and a picnic lunch.
* Annual Italian Festival, Sebastiani Winery, Oct. 23, www.sebastiani.com, free!
* Pinot on the River, Sonoma Artisan Wine Center, Oct. 28-30, www.pinotfestival.com; Over three days, you’ll get to try all kinds of variations on this now popular wine, culminating in a five-course dinner.
* Tasting Along the Wine Road, Russian River, Nov. 5-6, www.wineroad.com; 57 wineries offering wine & food pairings, with cookbook included.
* Monterey wine country’s ninth annual Great Wine Escape Weekend, Nov. 10-13,
www.montereywines.org, ticket prices vary.
* Silver Pass Weekend, Silverado Trail Wineries Association, Nov. 12-13, www.silveradotrail.com, $20-30 for weekend.
* 21st Annual Holiday Open House, Sonoma Wineries, Nov. 25, www.HeartOfSonomaValley.com, $10/pp per day.
* Olive Festival, Sonoma Valley, Dec. 3, 707-996-1090, festival and dinner pays homage to the olive.
* Julian Grape Stomp & Festa, Julian, CA, September 2006, www.julianca.com/media/grape_stomp.htm. It’s over for this year but every September the Julian Chamber of Commerce celebrates the harvest of the grapes with a real, olde-worlde-style grape stomp and festa at the Menghini Winery. This grape stomp offers two barrels for stomping – one for adults and one for children. Confirm the exact date early next year and be sure to add it to your September ’06 calendar!
–Jacqui Love Marshall lives in Danville with her vintage-car-loving husband, two pugs and binders of recipes.
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